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Sunday, July 09, 2006
Yes, Baby Dixon is due to arrive in about three months!!! How did we get to this stage?? (warning: this could be a lengthy one, pull up a chair and get some coffee)..... I will start at the beginning. Well, we're in America now -- Birmingham, Alabama, to be exact. We arrived a couple months ago. We found out in early March that I am 'with child' ---when I was already in my 2nd trimester!!! We went to the first prenatal check-up in Beijing, Frank and I couldn't believe our eyes. God is awesome!--We were expecting to see maybe a little pea-sized unrecognizable dot (as I thought I was probably 5-6 weeks along), but what we saw was a completely distinguishable human creation---head, legs, arms, ears, and maybe, said the doc, boy parts!--moving all around like crazy, waving hello to us on the screen! It was by far better than anything I've ever seen with my own two eyes, better than any kind of landscape (Everest, Grand Canyon, etc.) I could imagine. I started crying and laughing at the same time, I was bursting with joy--no exaggeration! I had a couple of the ultrasound scans that put up on our bulletin board so as to remind myself that there is actually another human living in my abdomen.
One could be wondering at this point how in the world I was so in the dark for an ENTIRE trimester?!..... I got off the pill at the end of December (was going to run out soon and had been taking expired packs for a few months anyhow, plus I just wanted to get off chemicals after being on them for many years) and expected it to be a while ( i.e. many months or even a year+) before I even started menses, much less became normal and fertile, so I thought nothing of it to go for 3 months without a trace, especially considering I had not a one of the typical pregnancy symptoms. The only reason I even took a home pregnancy test in the first place was because I was going to start taking a Chinese herb that is suppose to make you start your menstrual cycle by flushing out your system, but the pharmacist (who was very, very old and sported a long, tapering white beard down to his sternum) said to make absolutely sure that I wasn't pregnant and handed me a Chinese pregnancy test. So I went home and nonchalantly did the test.....and then I had to make sure I was reading the Chinese right on the instruction pack when two pink lines appeared! That was when my heart starting pounding out of my chest ninety-to-nothing!
(which didn't stop for several days--I couldn't even sleep well, I was up thinking about it so much). Frank wasn't home at the time of the test-taking, but when he came in soon afterwards, he recalls that I was flapping my arms and speechless--all I could finally frenetically mutter was, "pregnancy test!" and pointed to the table. Since he had no idea that I was even taking a test, obviously, he had a shock coming to him, as well.
And of all the times in my life that I've not tried to take fairly excellent care of myself (with a few brief exceptions), it was on the road during our 6-week tour through Southeast Asia (mid-January through early March). I won't go into all the details, but I asked people to please pray that God would knit him together in my womb just as He desires. That time for the baby was the most crucially formative. We had a testimony in our small group from church that same week from a Hungarian girl whose mother had been recommended to abort their recently-diagnosed Downs Syndrome baby---but by faith, they began to pray and asked friends to pray. Next check-up??---a completely healthy baby with no sign of any genetic problems! A true miracle. I was also listening to online sermons that week on God's sovereignty and how nothing comes by chance, but only by his Fatherly hand. Very comforting....even the things that we think of as "bad", we just can't see through God's eyes the big picture how He is working it all out for good.
Anyway, the little guy (yes, our suspicions have been confirmed by the American doc--he is definitely a he!) is coming along just fine, as far as we all can tell. He's definitely been making his presence known (what a kicker!--you can even see my whole belly rumble around and jut out when he's going at it--amazing!). Frank is Frank Murray Dixon III, so basically we have to decide if he'll be the fourth
or something else--preferably either a Biblical or family name--we've got a couple strong possibilities up our sleeves now. I have been feeling tremendous this entire time, better than I normally do, I believe (could it be that I/we should always try watch what goes into our bodies and exercise so consistently?!). I keep wondering when the hard part's coming (I think I know--I am putting off peering at the last section of all these pregnancy books: 'Labor & Delivery'). I can't believe the rate of weight gain, though. I've already put on about 22 pounds, and there's still lots more to go!
We'd actually planned on coming back to America anyway at the end of May, but we decided to cut it short by a couple weeks. My brother was going to come stay with us those last few weeks and practice all the Chinese he's been learning at Vandy, but he missed his chance. It was sad saying goodbye to the people there whom we may not see again and who have been so encouraging to us, but we both feel that God would have us in the U.S. at this time--main reason being spending time with our parents.
And that's exactly what we've been doing.... We are still officially sleeping under the roof of Murray and Sue Dixon (yep, that's the inlaws!). We have been busy spending time with both of our families, actually, driving back and forth from Hattiesburg to B'ham to stay with each family, but mainly we are at Frank's parents and go to see my parents on the weekends (they now spend 3 of of the 7 days of the week down in Orange Beach on their boat, so most every time we've visited them, we've gone down there). We're planning on living in B'ham for the next year or so before going to graduate school--M.Div/MBA dual program---possibly in the fall of 2007 or '08. But who knows.....
Frank just got hired by a small investment banking firm that tithes their time and profits, which is unheard of. I believe it'll be such an encouragement for him to be surrounding my young men (the proprietor is only 38) who are doing this all for God's glory. Now that we know where he'll be working, I'm trying to find us an apartment or house somewhere close to his office and hopefully get moved in next week. And then we'll start with all the getting-ready-for-the-baby fun! We went garage-saling yesterday morning and checked off the list some of the major things.
Ta-ta for now!
Saturday, December 03, 2005

Frank and I took a soft-seater express train due west from Beijing to Hangdan—about a 4-hour ride going exactly 137 km/h, according to our ticket, and from there were picked up by two nuns from a convent to drive another 1½ hours to a mere village—-population 700,000--called DaMing. Don't bother with maps. I can't find it even in the smallest print on our huge wall map of China.
Our group from Beijing included me, Frank, Keith–-a fellow American whom I've known since 2002 who has a whole story of his own of how he and his family came to China and what they're doing here, two French ladies--one of which has lived in Beijing for more than ten years, a Chinese-American woman from Houston who was our 'Catholic connection' with this diocese, and a young Chinese man who is a tour guide for parents who have adopted little girls from China who want to bring their daughters back to experience her roots and homeland.
When the nun in our car announced, "Dao le" ("We're here"), I peered out the window to see a run-down, poorly-masoned brick complex with a high wall built around the it and broken bottle glass shards on top of the wall to, I suppose, keep things/people/animals either in or out. Once inside the complex, it was hard for my eyes not to go straight to the huge coal pile in the middle of the yard. I'm not good with guessing measurements, but it took up as much space as, say, a cozy apartment in NYC. It had been dumped there the previous week by the local boiler repair company. Even with all this coal on hand, these huge rubble chunks still would only last them till the beginning of 2006 or so.
That was one of the two reasons our team came—-to help get the boiler fixed. Before coming, I had a vague notion of what a boiler looked like, but this one looked like it should be on display in the Smithsonian as the first model ever created. It was tall and rusty… and broken. Large-machine repairwork is not my best subject, so I was glad that some others came prepared, not to fix it themselves, but had done enough research (including studying the corresponding Chinese translations) to be able to sit down with the local boiler company and have heated discussions (no pun intended) on how to go about heating the orphanage throughout the coming 15 winters so as to never have another child have body parts amputated due to frostbite during his/her sleep again.
Last winter on one especially cold night, the window to one of the children's bedrooms was left cracked open, and one girl consequently had to have both her feet amputated. She already had shown signs of poor circulation, but getting frostbitten was the final straw. Once Keith saw her, he was moved to take her home to his family's foster home right outside of Beijing for a few weeks during the rest of the winter. Keith and his wife helped get her fitted for crutches and prosthetic feet, something not so easy to get, even in China's capital city. Even though they're hard to come by, they still come cheap (it's China—the world's factory) at $100 American dollars a set. Now she's back at the orphanage going wherever she so pleases.
This was my first time to step on the grounds of a real orphanage before in any country. I've been to a few large foster homes and technical training schools for orphans, but never a bona fide orphanage. I've heard the mothers at our small international church, with one foster/adopted Chinese baby in each arm, tell me they just couldn't walk out of there with a good conscience leaving that one baby or child that grabbed their heart to stay in those conditions. On the train ride out, I was asking Keith to compare this orphanage with the other ones he's seen. He rated Daming's in the 4-5 category (out of 10), for several reasons. First, this one in Daming is not a Chinese state-run institution like most every other orphanage; it's under the supervision of 'charity'—-22 Catholic sisters take care of these children in exchange for a bit of religious freedom. They, unlike most all other Catholic churches in China, can call the Pope the head of their church--and not the Communist government. Second, and with the first in mind, it should follow that if you're volunteering to do this kind of work and especially if you're doing so in the name of God-- and not paid to do it as your daily job given to you by the government-- then there should be a little more compassion in caring for these fatherless and motherless children.
St. Bosco's Convent (not sure where they got this name from) began almost two decades ago when some of the sisters, who were all in their mid-teens at the time, decided to come together to devote their whole life to what they believed was God's calling for them. Most of them had been raised in Catholic families, but even so, they claim they had no clue what they were doing at first because at that time, China still had little contact with the outside world. Then, slowly, one by one, people in the community came asking for money for medical care for their sick children. Eventually, after parents had died or had become estranged, someone would bring the orphaned child to the sisters, hoping that out of pity and/or love, they'd take care of them. Eleven years and 32 children later, this orphanage is seemingly well-established in the area. Just last year, an 11-year-old boy, BaoTan, was given to the sisters to care for—-his parents died when he was a baby and was left with his grandmother. But last year, his 80-year-old grandmother knew that BaoTan needed to have a minor operation on his lower back and that she could not afford it. She believed that the local convent could take care of him better than she.
After the coal pile, my eyes next went to the entrance of the orphanage section of convent. In October the orphanage got a new double-paned glass doorway (thanks to the donations of Anne's, one of the French ladies, small church that meets in the French Embassy in Beijing). The glass etching overhead reads, "ST. BOSCO RETARTED CENTER". Besides the spelling mistake, I don't think it exactly represents what the nuns were trying to convey. We have no idea where they (whoever "they" may be) got this translation from. It was the first time for Anne to see it since the donation was given. Needless to say, she was a little disappointed.
I didn't fully know this until after we were on the train home, but apparently it's not so easy for anyone, especially foreigners, to so casually enter the grounds of an orphanage in China. In 1995 there was a documentary made called, "The Dying Rooms", featuring a British television team who entered four orphanages in China posing as American charity fund-raisers/social workers with concealed cameras (how'd they get away with those accents?). It caused a huge stir between Britain/The West and China. However, it seems that many of their charges were proven correct: mortality rates were high, staffing was inadequate, and funding was too low to cover the minimal physical needs of the state's wards. Yes, those statements could be true in any third world country. The problem that the Chinese government had with the documentary was that Human Rights Watch Association (HRWA) attributed this dire situation not to welfare system failures in a poor country but to an intentional government policy to weed out the weak within the orphanage system, keeping the numbers down and expenses low at a time of escalating abandonment by parents. HRWA even suspected that some orphanages were set up to facilitate the speedy death of abandoned babies.
This was probably the main reason for it taking an act of Congress for most everyone to gain official permission to access orphanages, and then only with due scheduling and time limitations.
Beijing's response to the above accusations:
"Our investigations confirm that those reports are vicious fabrications made out of ulterior motives. The contemptible lie about China's welfare work in orphanages cannot but arouse the indignation of the Chinese people, especially the great numbers of social workers who are working hard for children's welfare."
It still doesn't surprise me to hear responses like this.
Because the producers of "The Dying Rooms" had lied their way into the Chinese orphanages, the Ministry of Civil Affairs responded by closing orphanages to all outsiders, including most Chinese. While some early international adopters (China first opened itself up to international adoption in 1992) had been given open access to walk around and photograph inside orphanages, now many are not even allowed to drive by the outside. I've heard many parents say that they had to be driven to the nearest city and go inside some random hotel lobby to be presented their new child. After Anne went through the same rigamarole, she threatened to not hand over her orphanage donations (they ask all new parents to bring toys, clothes, formula, etc.) until they took her to the orphanage from which her daughter came and she took a picture. Even then they drove her to some random place and claimed it was the orphanage. She really wanted to have this picture for her daughter later on to know where she came from. Finally, with some coaxing, she got there and got her precious photo.
Consequently, some officials became suspicious of any offers of help from volunteers, particularly foreigners. Several study-abroad students I've known wanted to volunteer their time at a nearby orphanage, but were turned away either directly at the door or were finally rejected after the endless red tape bureaucracy that they had to go through to gain permission. Even for Keith with his well-established connections, in some places it still doesn't matter. Foreign face = no go. Don't think that this holds some of the more zealous volunteers back. Stories abound of foreigners dressing up as Chinese…
Failure and neglect in a state welfare system, although serious, is a charge one could level against all too many governments, including, for example, the United States for tolerating something such as homelessness in the world's richest (and best!) country. Death rates in all third-world orphanages are comparatively high, and standards of medical care are low. These problems are typical in countries where schools and hospitals are chronically underfunded (I won't start on hospitals/medical care here).
The People's Daily newspaper puts the orphan population at roughly 100,000--a figure thought unusually low for a country with a population of (what they claim is) 1.3 billion. Using official statistics, Human Rights Watch Association has located just over 17,000 of this figure in urban orphanages and fewer than 37,000 in the rural institutions cited by the Chinese embassy. HRWA says that this leaves a shortfall of 46,000.
Where are the other ones that the country claims to have? In Shanghai at the Children's Welfare Institute, the mortality rate almost a decade ago was "probably 90 percent" (according to an HRWA report). Some, when referring to China's post-1979 population control policies, have called it the 20th century's hidden holocaust. That's a serious claim, indeed. I haven't done any research, but even when Frank talks to his adult, well-educated, professional students, one of them has even estimated that at least 90% of female Beijingers (that's slang here for 'people who reside in Beijing') have had at least one abortion. Directly or indirectly forced, most choose this option because that's what society/government says to do in non-ideal situations. Though this is a whole other HUGE topic, abortions and other birth control measures are out of control in this country so much that it may even make a pro-choice American gag.
Within a small radius of Beijing, the political center of the nation and the home to a sparkling newly-built city for the 2008 Olympics, there are five orphanages that house children who have heart disease, cleft lips and palates, clubfeet, terrible skin diseases, and children wasting away because they can not take enough food by mouth to nourish them. And there are lots of healthy children, too. One family in our small international church has three children with cleft lips and palates. One of their other children asked his mom one day if all orphans in China had cleft lips and palates. It would seem to him like there are a disproportionate number in China, but no, one it just as likely to be born with a cleft lip and palate in China as one is in America or anywhere else.
Who abandons their own "fruit of their body," as the Bible poetically puts it? It took me a while to figure out the calculus of orphans in China. From my Beijing-centric frame of reference, I had to step back and remind myself of that amazing fact that I heard: one of every six people in the world are Chinese peasant farmers. These numbers make a little more sense in my mind—-generally, the families who leave these children are rural and poor. They leave them (or at least they are found) in crowded areas, train stations, and shopping areas. It is illegal to abandon children in China, so children who are truly orphaned in China go to live with relatives. This means that most children in Chinese orphanages are abandoned anonymously and usually nothing is known of their background. Were their mothers drug or alcohol abusers? Do genetic disorders run in their family? No one really knows. The vast majority of Chinese orphans are girls, left because they are thought to be less desirable. Girls will make little money and will not be able to provide for their parents in their old age. The ones who go to the orphanages are the 'lucky' ones with a chance at a beautiful life with a family in North America or Europe. Many girls in China simply disappear, perhaps drowned in a rice paddy or smothered with a blanket in a quiet home in the countryside. Yes, it is still true—-the birth of a boy is celebrated; the birth of a girl is not. I hear it more often than I'd like from students or friends that were almost victims. Harvard professor Amartya Sen estimates that perhaps 44 million female babies have gone 'missing' from China's demographics since the one child per family policy was introduced in 1979. If a child is "unplanned", the parents will be heavily fined for exceeding the quota of one child per family (unless they are from a minority group), the largest reason for the escalating abandonment and abortions. The boys who go to the orphanages are usually sick, disabled, or have obvious malformations. The sex ratio now is just shy of 120 boys per 100 girls (the natural sex ratio is about 105 boys per 100 girls). What about those girls/women that were born? From the earliest age, they receive the message that from their families and indeed from their whole society, "Boys are better than girls," or "I wish you were a boy." The devastation to their own self-worth must be immense.
This failure to realize that men and women, boys and girls have equal value in God's sight results in our not viewing male and female as equals in our sight either.
For the last year or so, at least once every month CNN.com has headlined a coal mining accident in China. "160 Killed in Yanzhou Mine Explosion" or "Coal Mining: Most Deadly Job In China". Accidents like this or natural disasters like a typhoon are only one piece of the pie for reasons that children end up in orphanages in this country. Like I said, most of them are abandoned by their parents because (a) the baby not the desired sex, (b) the parents do not want the child because they have one already or they are not ready for one yet, or (c) the baby is seriously or almost irremediably disabled mentally or physically or has contracted a serious illness. As I spent a little bit of time with each child I saw there at Daming's orphanage, I tried to imagine what may have gone through the parents' minds in making the decision to abandon their precious creation. I had a little sympathy for those who could have thought that their sick child would receive the care he or she needed at the orphanage. Like I mentioned earlier, this reason is giving the parents/relatives the benefit of the doubt—-like in BaoTan's situation. But perhaps they were ashamed by their child's clubfeet or misshapen ears, and they did not want anyone in their village to know that they had given birth to this so-called 'monster'. The Chinese people, even in bustling consumer-driven Beijing, still stare at my and Frank's Anglo white American faces. I can't imagine what kind of looks a disabled child receives. In fact, we hardly ever see handicapped people in this city. Hmmmm. As I looked at each child, it was clear that each one of the children had a hidden past. They needed love so badly. It was sad for me to think of the future of each of these children. The ones at this orphanage (and many others) can never be adopted by a non-Chinese family. For some reason or another, they were not issued their "hukou" (national ID card), a must for everything in China. Without one of these, foreign adoption is not an option. Sick children are often considered unfit for foreign adoption anyhow. Foreign adoption of orphans most of the time means that officials pocket a certain amount of the exorbitant fees for international adoption (typically between $15-20,000 USD). Orphanages permitted to do international adoptions (not all can) get to keep a significant portion (what's left over) of the fees that foreign adopters pay. International adoption fees have brought over one hundred million dollars into the orphan welfare system in the past decade at a rate of around twenty-five million dollars per year in the past two to three years. That's a lot. However, the main reason for the children's low chances of adoption at the Daming orphanage and ones like it is that most Chinese families can not afford or do not know how to raise a child with so many special needs. Furthermore, individual foster care is often discouraged since recent legal changes have been made, allowing adoption only in "genuine" cases--that is, where the child has lost both parents by death. Keith and his family found out about this new law when they looked into legally adopting a girl--whose biological parents are prominent city officials—-and were turned down. Yes, I know it doesn't make sense that it's illegal to abandon a child and yet the parents are known and are still able to be city officials. Looking at these kids, I didn't even want to think that these children, most of whom have probably never given their next ten minutes a thought, much less ten+ years, could go on to be the paralyzed or blind beggars that I see so often at the local street markets and under bridges. Yet it happens all too often. At 18, orphans are on their own, left with little or no training for the real world that lies outside the gates.
Inside the Daming orphanage in a baby blue room as big as a country dance hall, a couple babies and a few children sat unattended. Banging their legs and thrashing their arms, they vacillated between dozing and rocking, all of them dressed in a dirty jackets and pants with scruffy faces, shut off from the outside world. During our short visit, the sisters from the orphanage at the St. Bosco convent went in each morning into the poorly-lit fetid room to place the five children with cerebral palsy (CP) into their pale bluish-green wooden hand-fashioned chairs. The children were then left alone in these chairs all morning and all afternoon and all evening, with visits only during feeding times. The nuns did not return for bathroom breaks; there is a bucket underneath each chair for that.
One night while we were painting the kitchen, one child from this room (which was next door to us) kept yelling loudly over and over what sounded to us in English like, "BORING!" He yelled it about 100 times. Keith and I couldn't help but to laugh a little bit. It must be boring. None of them will likely ever learn to speak or walk or feed or dress themselves. They have no stimulation, nothing to play with, no one to touch or hold them. Rocking is their only exercise, their stimulation, their seemingly only pleasure in life.
There is no such thing as physical therapy in China. I didn't know that. I didn't even know that physical therapy is distinctly American. Recently one man from the States has imported this uniquely American practice to Beijing especially for the 1000-days-to-go-and-counting Olympics. I just read this in a newspaper (of course, as with everything else, the Chinese are tweaking it to have "Chinese characteristics"—-just like they've done to make socialism "with Chinese characteristics"). So the difficult work of strengthening young bodies weakened by disuse and disease is left to orphanage workers who haven't the slightest idea of what should be done. Orphanage workers, typically assigned one to four or five children even for the youngest children, probably would never have the time to do the needed intensive physical therapy, even if they were professionally trained.
There is some hope, though, for the orphans of China. The recent spread of foster care programs, particularly for disabled children, is a development that may be fundamentally altering Civil Affairs' long-standing preference for institutional care of abandoned and orphaned children. Only ten years ago, Civil Affairs saw foster care as a last resort, preferring instead to expand and improve institutional care facilities. International child welfare organizations and U.S. adoption agencies have long believed that foster care was far better for children than institutional care, and this view is increasingly shared among experts in China as well. Some officials in the Ministry of Civil Affairs now hope to put up to half of the children under the ministry's care into some form of foster care within five years. Frank and I have met with the man who is spearheading this movement. He is a Brit and lives in Beijing with his family. He his wife and the organization that they started are doing some groundbreaking work, working hand-in-hand with the government, all in Christ's name.
Frank, Keith, and I got both the kitchen and entranceway painted a fresh "eggshell" color. Keith noticed on his last trip that the lead-based paint was peeling off the kitchen walls and likely falling into the food being prepared. This was the main reason that Frank and I came along—-to be Keith's painter elves.
There were no real ladders so we had to make do with setting a chair on top of the refrigerator to reach the high walls and ceilings. By the time we finished scraping the walls, we had made a complete mess of the scraped-off paint chips and plaster all over everything. The first night of scraping, every time I glanced over at the door, I could see a little boy's head peering through the glass through the clouds of dust. For hours he stood there staring. I would smile at him and would get in return a grin four times the size of mine. This was BaoTan. I thought it was too late for this little man to still be up, but he seemed to have the freedom to stay up if he felt like it. So he did. Who knows if he'd ever seen anything like us before? Imagine no television, internet, or magazines ever in your life-—everyone around you all the time was slender, 5'4", yellow/brown skin, black hair, chocolate eyes, and then all of a sudden you see a 6' balding man with light blonde hair, blue eyes, and overweight… [this is Keith; hope he doesn't read this ;-) ]. I'd stare, too. I invited BaoTan in, tied on a mask, and told him what he could do to help. He seemed eager to help. The next morning he was there, too. He left for a few hours to go to school but returned afterwards. When Frank, Keith, and I were called to dinner (the 'chef nuns' prepared a feast for us every meal—-vegetables and meat and special breads—-while they and the children ate rice and steamed buns), BaoTan stayed behind and cleaned brushes and pans so diligently that you would've though they were brand new afterwards. That night I needed some help hanging up some decorations that we'd brought. Rex and Marty (American friends who've been living in Beijing) gave money for, among other things, sprucing the place up a bit other than painting--something the kids could enjoy. Before leaving Marty and I went to a nearby market and picked out some shiny streamers, red paper cut-outs, glittery signs, red paper lanterns, and even some small pin-on toys with flashing lights. After BaoTan and I had hanged the streamers and lanterns across the main upstairs hall (the one where the CP stay all day), I told BaoTan that it was his responsibility to decide where the rest of the stuff was to be put; I'd just follow him wherever he went until we either a) ran out of decorations, or b) it got too late for me. Not surprisingly, choice b came first, but not before we had gone to every bedroom and had hanged a streamer by each child's bed and all up and down the stairwells and the cafeteria, etc., etc. How thoughtful.
While we were hanging on the stairwell, I asked BaoTan why he thought that we came to the orphanage. He shrugged his shoulders. Unsure of whether that was a genuine "I don't know" or just his being shy, I answered for him, telling him that it was not because of anything other than Jesus. I asked, "Do you know who Jesus is?" He nodded. I asked him if he knew that Jesus loved him so very, very much, and he replied, "Yes". "Why does Jesus love you?" I asked next. He shrugged his shoulders again. Frank, before heading to the other side of the camp for the night (the nuns were very uncomfortable about having fully-grown men sleeping in the same place as the women and children, so they pulled me aside the first afternoon and asked if I'd mind if Frank kept Keith company across the yard in another building for the night, and the next night…), came to tell us goodnight as we were the only ones still up at that hour. Frank also reminded BaoTan that Jesus loved him. Keith has a daughter from a Catholic-run orphanage that came into their family at nine years of age without knowing much at all, he says, about Christ's love. Nothing personal against the sisters, but the one real thing that these children need is to know and accept God's love. I pray that someone demonstrates and shares that with each child that comes through that orphanage.
The next morning before daybreak, Keith and Frank had emerged from the other building across the yard and I from the third floor of the orphanage out to the entrance to wait for our ride to the train station. The only other person up at that hour was the head nun, who was to see us off (an important part of displaying hospitality in Chinese custom). So we thought… sweet little BaoTan, sleepy-eyed and in his same clothes as he was in the whole time, came through the doors, apparently to say goodbye one more time to us. The head nun made sure to tell us that she'd never seen him up so early before. I wanted to just stuff him into our little economy-sized car with us and take him back to Beijing.
We got a phone call from Nippon paint company while there saying that they'd donate as many cans in whatever color for our next projects (about $30 per can here). Hopefully we'll get to return someday and take Nippon up on their offer.
Monday, September 12, 2005
"Come again? I didn't catch that... Mr. ...."
Parents in Guangdong Province, China, are said to be choosing strange names for their babies, reports the Guangzhou Daily. The English translations of some recent names include, "Meteor Shower," "Logic," "Fairy Tale," "Emperor," and "Lucky Girl". Those names are small fries when compared with "Tarquin Fin Tin Lin Bin Sim F'tang F'tang Ole Bus-stop Biscuit Barrel III," a former member of Britain's strangest political party, the Official Monster Raving Loony Party.
I just want to type that say that last name again, especially the last part: "Tarquin Fin Tin Lin Bin Sim F'tang F'tang Ole Bus-stop Biscuit Barrel III"!
Friday, July 08, 2005
(written far too many months afterwards)
Warning: This is very long, but I hope it'll be worth your time.
This whole idea to go to Thailand came about one Sunday after church, a couple weeks after the tsunami had hit. One of the members of our small international church told us that he was leaving the next day with his (adopted Chinese) 14-year-old daughter to head down to Phuket island. This guy, whom we’ll call ‘Jim’ (which sounds like his name in Thai) is from the Midwest in the States. He is a former large-truck mechanic/truck driver. He and his wife of 27 years, both very American, have two grown, married boys. Almost ten years ago, after they both became believers, Jim’s number-one thing that he was trying to overcome in his walk was his racist attitude, particularly toward the Chinese. Long story short (after a string of incidences), one year later, he and his wife were sitting in an orphanage lobby in Henan Province, China, waiting to pick up their first adopted Chinese daughter. Three more legal adoptions were soon to occur after that from Stateside. The whole clan moved to Beijing about 2 ½ years ago to work more directly with Chinese orphans. Currently they are running a foster home right outside of Beijing. I think they’re up to about 11 kids (legally adopted and foster) now.
So, you can imagine that this couple needed a little break, having had no vacation together since living here. In November, a guy they bumped into (who happened to work for Thai Airways) offered them a steal-of-a-deal package to go down to Phuket, Thailand, for ten days. This couple’s heart-after-the-Lord-and-the-lost led them that week to become pretty good friends with a number of Thai people there.
When Jim dialed up his internet connection on December 26 and first beheld the devastation where he and his wife just were, he immediately felt the urge, almost a duty, to go down there to help. Unsure of the capacity in which he was to serve (should he go alone or with a team?, help rebuild infrastructure or do more counseling/ministry?), the next few days, Jim searched to figure that out. A few days later, Jim woke up one morning to read an email from another foreigner living in China. Towards the end of the email, it mentioned the possibility of this man’s going down to Thailand to help with the tsunami. Jim instantly replied back. This other foreigner, ‘Bo’, an Australian who’d previously lived in Thailand for 15 years and spoke completely fluent Thai, was a little befuddled to receive Jim’s reply. Apparently, Bo hadn’t sent the email out in the first place, but it was an automatically-generated one sent out from his secure email. Bo, somehow, didn’t know how the Thailand information got on there. Strange as it may sound, whatever happened, the two teamed up – having never met before (only having mutual friends) – and began to round up a few volunteers to go with them.
These two, along with their daughters and some high-schoolers and college kids from Bo’s international church in another city in China, got there a week before Frank and I did. Frank and I had planned on getting there a little earlier, but as I wrote to my mom that week, “I’m sick. I’m between the bed, the bathroom, and the floor.” We had to postpone our flight a few days. While preparing to leave, though, two incidences struck me – both about generosity. Though more people than we imagined gave us things to take down there (money, toys, medicine, etc.), two people really gave the widow’s mite. Some of you may have heard me talk or write (in a previous blog entry) about our ‘Ayi’ – housekeeper lady. Wang grew up a peasant, married a peasant-turned-construction worker, and, over a year ago, was fired from her cow-milking job. With a daughter in college and debts to pay off from medical bills, we found out about her through our connection with the local house congregation and hired her for 15 hours a week. Though we most certainly enjoy the help she provides, we’re basically just trying to give her a bit of income. We pay her a livable income. The week before we were to leave, it was time to pay her. She wouldn’t have it. She handed it right back to Frank, absolutely refusing to let it go to herself while knowing the great need of brothers and sisters in Thailand.
The second act of kindness was from a 13-year-old girl who lives upstairs from us in a one-room apartment with her mother. [I have also written about this girl before.] She’s the child prodigy pianist. She is from south China, moved up to Beijing to learn from the best teacher (free lessons offered by the teacher because this girl is just that good), separated from her father, and the mother is not allowed to work (government regulations – outside of her home province). The school gives SiJing 50 RMB each month (~$6), and she had been saving it up for a few months. Before we left, SiJing and her mother wanted to give us some money to take to the people. The mom had in mind an amount to give us herself, but SiJing couldn’t match it, so they settled on 150 RMB each (~$18.30). We were told by the team that was already down there that toys and other children’s goods were wanted, so the two went out and bought with that money all kinds of stuff for us to take. Our hiking backpacks were almost spilling over from all their toy donations.
Okay, on to the part about our time in Thailand… Frank and I, after having a 10-hour layover/sleepover in the Bangkok airport (and taking a night-tour through the city in a cab – that’s one city where you can still see a lot going on, even at 4 a.m.), were beat when we arrived in Phuket. Jim and Bo were ready to go, though. After Bo gave us a very brief orientation to Thai culture (don’t pat children’s heads, boys greet differently from girls, exchange rates, etc.), we drove past a lagoon that was right across the street from the sea and stopped. As it was one of the few remaining lagoons still being pumped out, a large crowd of solemn, still, dazed Thai and foreign people were waiting to see if the body of a loved one would show up. Jim and Bo, as was their habit all week that I admire and like very much, walked around the grounds, silently praying for those people and their families.
This was our first introduction to Thailand. Before going, Frank and I had little time (between buying tickets – at least a three-day affair here, recovering from my sickness, and getting things together) to research what we’d be in for. CCTV (China Communist Television, as it’s called here) gave, what I would call very poor, coverage of the tsunami – no footage of the waves, only interviews of the Chinese government ‘volunteers’. We came with very little expectations, both for what the Thai culture would be like and for what we’d be doing down there.
It was lunch time by then. Bo and Chris couldn’t wait for us to meet someone that they’d all grown to love during the previous week. During the first week, Bo, Chris, and daughters got to stay for two nights free of charge at the $500-a-night Marriot Resort Club. Yep. One of the local church ladies worked in management there, and since it was nearly completely vacant, she pulled some strings for them (after Jim and Bo had been sleeping in a humid, mosquito-laden, single-bed hut for a couple days). One morning they were all looking for a cheap place to eat. Jim noticed out his back window a hut about a hundred meters away in the middle of a bean field. They went on foot, through the field. The owner’s name was “Granny” (her Thai name sounded similar, though she was only in her late 50s). They all sat down for a meal fresh out of the ocean. Over the meal, Bo talked with Granny and her two sons (both in their twenties) about their tsunami experiences. Jim and Bo noticed that one of Granny’s sons’ arms and legs had open-flesh wounds. As the first wave (there were two) was edging back into the ocean, he was ‘lucky’ enough to grab onto a palm tree and hang on for dear life while the next wave engulfed the area. Bo, because of his incredible fluency in Thai, got to be the one to talk with Granny and her sons about the possibility the God has preserved their lives for a reason. That day, Granny and sons professed to be believers upon hearing the Good News. The team gave them New Testaments in their own Thai language.
When Frank and I arrived at Granny’s hut, we first saw her plodding through her bean field with a towel wrapped around her. She’d just come from bathing somewhere in the back of the field. She unexpectedly gave me a big hug with a beaming grin across her face. She got dressed and then made us some Thai tea and cut a fresh pineapple for us. I looked around her restaurant/shop/home – which was an open-air bamboo hut – to see that her all-plank wood bed had on it a pillow, a folded-up blanket, a pair of spectacles, and a New Testament, opened and faced down to mark a page. Besides serving us up the best tea I’d tasted in a long time (besides my Mamaw’s & Aunt Tammy’s, of course), she asked us if we could come share with her friends the same Good News that she’d received. “Of course,” Bo replied.
Bo contacted the local church there that we were working under and lined up a Thai lady, ‘Ad’, who had just moved from Bangkok, to come talk with them, per Granny’s request. As we did every morning before going out, the ‘China team’ had our devotional time together in Bo and Jim’s hotel room. No, we weren’t staying at the Marriot, but at a place far nicer than Frank and I had anticipated. The whole area was so starved for business that the manager of this hotel (the place where Jim and his wife had stayed earlier in November) practically made no profit on our stay – AND offered us free breakfast/lunch all-you-can-eat buffet every day. That morning we, among other things, prayed specifically for the friends that Granny had invited.
Late that afternoon, our team arrived at Granny’s. When we wheeled around the curvy road and pulled up in the gravel driveway, there were more Thai ladies there than local fire laws permitted for such a small space, I’m sure. Standing room only. After going around and introducing ourselves, ‘Ad’ began to share and relate to these ladies in a way that only a local Thai person could. Bo was translating for the non-Thai speakers there. I really admired the way Ad shared her faith. Nothing about it was manipulative or out of sheer emotionalism, yet it wasn’t dry and trite. It conveyed her love and sincere care for these ladies. So much was her care for these ladies that after most of them professed to believe that day, Ad brought them along side her and has been discipling them in the faith.
Right afterwards, one of the few men that came to that meet-up told Bo about the fishing village where he and his wife come from. It is a “sea gypsy” village. This group of people doesn’t really historically belong to either the Thai heritage or to next-door-neighbor Burma. For centuries, this nomadic people-group have lived on the sea and settled back and forth in different places. You can tell, too, just by looking at them that they are distinctly different from most other Asian faces. Very striking eyes. Most notably, the tsunami swiped away all of their fishing boats, which they solely rely on for their daily survival. The man and his wife reported to us that they had no one to turn to since they are not legally registered with the Thai government and are not citizens of Burma either. They are the survivors of this type of people – thousands and thousands of unregistered wanderers living in Thailand were swept into the sea, and no one has any record of them to account for their disappearance.
Though their village and huts went unharmed, their lack of fishing boats were a major problem, as they lived as subsistence fishermen. More major, though, was that – according to what was translated to us – these sea gypsies had recently been involved in satanic worship (including all of the horrors of such – like incestuous births and even child sacrifice). And before that, they were practicing Buddhism. They seemed to be searching for something not-of-this-world.
We agreed to go with the couple back to their village, but only to initially survey the scene. Knowing the task ahead of us and before going to visit there a while, we wanted to make sure that we went in there prepared – and by that I mean two things: 1) that we had thoroughly prayed over the situation, and 2) that we had something to give them – either some songs in their language or games for the children, etc. We loaded up in our rental vans, where you drive on the left side of the road with the steering wheel on the right side, and headed over to their camp. It’s hard to describe the kind of welcome we received. Mind you, our group of foreigners-living-in-China were staying in the resort area of Phuket, but there are definitely places that you can drive to from there where few foreigners have been before, and this had to be one of them from the looks on these peoples’ faces. We were giggled and laughed at a lot by the children (mostly in a good way, we think), with some younger ones hiding behind their mother’s/big sister’s legs. I had my digital camera out, and the children got so excited seeing themselves in the display after I took some shots. They began to pose and then gather in huge groups, drawing a crowd of others from around the camp. No one seemed to want to be left out.
The next morning, we started off the day with a longer-than-usual group devotional time. Then we went to the local version of Wal-Mart and bought up all the little plastic toys they had. On the long drive out to their village, we tried to learn the Thai version of some oldies-but-goodies Sunday school songs to share with the kids. When we finally drove up (we were running late, but on “Thai time”, that’s not such a big deal), they were all standing there waiting on us. More people than were there the day before. A lot more. Some kid shouted out that we had arrived, and then more people came out. They must’ve called the other nearby huts beforehand to join them in hanging with the foreigners. They just kept on coming. Ever heard the expression, “Coming out of the woodwork”? This could be where it came from. Literally I saw a guy climb out of a tree. I think he was considered the outcast (he had a very serious facial deformity). Our team didn’t know where we were going to hold all these people in one big meeting place. It was such a sight to see the pure excitement in these people, especially in the children. I’m pretty sure that these kids don’t go to a formal government school, so this could’ve been the most amusing entertainment they’d had in a while.
Long story (made) short: Well over 50 children that afternoon (and into the evening) said that they believed in Jesus and prayed to accept Christ. A few of them had had some volunteer teachers in the past who had shared with them the same message, so this wasn’t all that new to them. The kids who had heard before were even helping teach some of the other kids by the end of the evening. Though a little less receptive, several adults in the sea gypsy village also made the same decision. Update: More adults since then have also decided that Jesus is the answer since we were there the first day. The local church has also since then planted a church there, and the sea gypsies seem to be flourishing in the truth, worshipping sea-gypsy style, if you can imagine!
Among the people that Jim and his wife met on their anniversary to Phuket in November 2004, one Thai family that he Jim wanted to check on owned a beach-side barbeque dive. Or so they used to. It was all washed away, even the down to the palms trees that provided shade for their livelihood - the sand surrounding the roots was gone, and the tall coconut trees were quickly dying. The mother, father, and their two school-aged sons were, like almost everyone else there, in serious need of getting their business (and tourists) back. Before we arrived, another group of foreigners befriended this family and personally helped them build an even better hut restaurant than before. Then along came the Thai government, who tore it all down and hauled it off because they didn’t have a permit. I’m not blaming their government; I understand the need for having those things regulated and controlled, but this seemed a little too swift-and-severe after such a devastating blow had just hit their people.
Before the whole team went to visit them, Jim and Bo walked over just to make sure they were even still there. When they came back, they warned us about what shock the wife was in. Jim said that she was just off in a daze the whole time, a very marked contrast to the sprightly little woman who’d served up some fine fixin’s for them months earlier. When the whole team arrived, we saw that they’d set up some lounge chairs that they’d found washed up, put up a stringy tarpaulin over a large ice-chest, and had a sign set up that basically said, “Take what you want, pay what you will”.
On the first visit, we saw that they were in need of some clothes. We knew just where to get some for them. In our hotel we met a couple from somewhere in middle America – the husband a pilot for United and the wife who’d just recovered from breast cancer – who had just flown over and brought some hand-me-downs collected from their neighborhood. On our next trip, this American couple came with us and brought their bagsful of stuff. The little woman’s face was just starting to light up towards the end of our time with them. When we left, she was smiling and hugging us and telling us to come back again soon. Walking away, we actually prayed (among other things) that God would bring the life back to those trees for that family.
Bo brought his guitar on our second visit. He walked up to the hut singing Paul Simon, which attracted the younger beach bums and European retirees lounging there. It was a Sunday, and we had just come from church and still hadn’t changed clothes yet. Our clothing puzzled some of the foreigners there, which opened us up to share with them why we were in Thailand at all. More than I expected were open to listening, and some wanted to sit around the circle and try to sing along with us. I met a German lady, Claudia, in her mid-60s who had been there since the tsunami. She was still visibly upset and was crying and crying to me telling me about the morning that the waves came in. She and her husband, since retiring, have lived half the year in Phuket and half the year back in Germany. Their condo is on a low cliff right above the barbeque restaurant. Every morning, she and her husband usually are the first ones on the beach. They try to go for a swim before the crowds start coming out around 11a.m. December 26th, however, she slept in. Her husband had gotten up early, but had not gone to the beach – he just went around the corner to read the morning paper. After arousing after 10 or so, she could see that something wasn’t right – only because of the overhead view she had from their oceanfront condo. Then when the water started to gradually draw back, she went out on her balcony and stayed to watch. When it all came tumbling back in and then right back out, she could see from above a little girl in the water that was looking right at her, calling for her to help. Claudia was helpless as she saw the girl’s head bobble up and down, grasping from breath, calling out to Claudia, and reaching out her arm for help each time her head was above the surface. Eventually Claudia saw the little Thai girl give up her last breath and be swept out into the Indian Ocean.
Claudia kept thanking us for coming and telling us that our eyes were so beautiful. She had a few other interesting stories about the tsunami – like about her Swedish friend’s husband who was told that his wife was seen in the undertow and was actually happy because then he couldn’t be found out about on his affair with a local girl, only to see his wife walk in the room alive three days later and catch them together. I got to meet this lady, Lizzy, and she was a wreck. What could I offer these people? It’s sometimes incredibly frustrating to not be able to speak every language in the world at my own command, and then sometimes it makes it so much simpler just to smile, hug, look into their eyes, listen, and watch hand and body gestures. Sometimes so much more is communicated when languages differ, especially in times of crisis.
But for children, I think that may be a different story. When our team went to visit a temporary school complex where many of the children had lost a mother or a father or a sibling or all of them, they all seemed so joyful. Really, they did. That day we teamed up with the Marriot and brought huge barrels of ice cream to the school. We served the world-wide favorite snack to the youngsters during their afternoon break. The team made three visits to this same school throughout the week. Upon the first visit, most of the children were wearing hilarious clothing. All of their belongings were gone, so they were just wearing whatever they found that washed up on the side of the road. Little boys in only BigNTall button-up shirts down to their knees; girls in men’s overhauls (as Jerry Clower called them); junior high boys in frilly pink pants. You could tell that they thought it was a little awkward, but probably just because they were used to wearing their white buttoned-up shirt and plaid pants/skirts as their uniform. They weren’t embarrassed. Everyone was doing it. They had set up makeshift tents outside. I have one picture of a table full of boys doing their math studies and right next to the table was a washed-up ski boat. On the other side of the lot was a green little compact car that looked like it had been wrapped around a palm tree about three of four times, limbs and debris sticking out of every crevice. After our team ate some lunch that was served up by the Thai military (chicken fingers sent directly from America were cooked outside under one of the tents), we got to hang out with the children a bit. I, once again, attracted some 4th graders with my never-before-seen digital camera. Of the small crowd of about 8 or 10, a couple of the boys could speak bits and pieces of English. One of them was telling me that some of the other children in the group were not Thai. They were from Nepal and Burma. I didn’t catch all of what he was trying to tell me, but I’m pretty sure that they were not there legally (mostly escaping because of the Maoist rebels in their home country) and that they didn’t have a home. They are hoping to be grafted into the school system without being noticed.
After the school had emptied out their ice cream barrels, we re-stocked and went to another site – the DNA identification and forensic center. Heavily guarded by friendly Thai soldiers, the entire area was boarded in. On these walls were all kinds of tsunami memorabilia. Drawings, paintings, letters, flowers, flags, and signatures were sent from places around the world to let the Thai people know that others out there cared. I got to read some of the sweetest letters from an elementary school in Lubbock, Texas. It would’ve made their mommas proud [and all the other Texans out there, too, as if they need more of that ;-)]. Clothing distribution centers were set up outside, dispersing second-hand garments that were sent from who all knows where. I couldn’t resist purchasing the “I (heart) XO” vintage sorority t-shirt when I saw it in on top of the piles. What a memento to take from your possibly only trip to Thailand ever. Closer to the entrance, there was a section of booths for bulletin boards of “Missing” pictures/descriptions -- “Last seen on ____Beach…”, “Last seen wearing ____”, “Has a birthmark on____”. I could’ve stayed at that place much longer and just prayed for and empathized with the families that may have been suddenly separated by this “Act of God”, as the insurance companies refer to this as. Reading what a Dutch mom and dad wrote about their yet-to-be-found little four-year-old, white-haired baby boy makes all the numbers from this disaster very real and very personal.
On into the taped-off area, we served ice cream to workers coming out of refrigerated storing trailers, covered from head to toe in bio-hazardous materials suits and masks. They had come from all over the world. Many of them have been there for the world’s floods, earthquakes, fires, train derailings, plane crashes, mine explosions, and hurricanes in our recent history. These are the people that are there before others come and stay after others leave. I knew nothing about these people and yet I admired them in so many ways for their service to the global community.
I think, though, that the real continuation of service will come from the local people. And the Hope of Talong Church is definitely on the ball with this one --- seeking out people that would otherwise be overlooked for government aid, digging in and meeting these people’s material needs firstly, maintaining that relationship at least on a weekly basis, and then bringing them into fellowship with other believers. Our team went with this local church group to a temporary housing complex for an afternoon. The church came armed with electric fans, snacks, and the Good News of hope to bring to these very devastated people. One five square meter room – with concrete flooring and unfinished particle board walls – served as places of residence for about 100+ families. Passing by handing out some cold water, I noticed some rooms filled to the brim with kids and other family members and all their stuff and lots of noise. In some, there would just be one person, sitting alone surrounded by nothingness and silence. I was glad that a lot of the new church members were there with us, the ones from Granny’s. One of the new believers partnered with me, and she and I went into one of these single-person rooms to assemble a fan for a man. My partner spoke in Thai to him and shared with him some things (I can only guess what). His expressionless face and blank-staring eyes were hauntingly like the lady’s from the barbeque beach hut. I’m pretty sure that he’d lost everything. Wife, young children, house.
The next group of about seven people that we talked to was in a pretty similar situation. This time, though, Jim and Bo and one of the local church pastors were on hand. Frank and I just got to stand there and marvel at their openness (both toward talking to us about their experiences and losses, and toward listening to what the young preacher was sharing). We were standing right outside one of the buildings, and the whole time, we heard someone weeping and moaning. We just assumed that it was the old man sitting off to the side on the edge of the plank with his head hung down. But as we were walking away, Jim saw that it was actually an old lady sitting in the corner inside the house.
I thought a bit about this lady afterwards, whom I couldn’t even look at, just had listened to her crying. She got me wondering about the grieving process of different people / people groups all over the world. With the international church that we go to in Beijing, one of the things I think I’ve learned is that God is definitely not confined to my North American ideas of how He works and moves in people’s lives. After hearing testimonies of people from Ukraine to Liberia to Iran, I see that God can use the cultural and individual setting in which we’re in to speak to us and call us to Himself. The Africans, for example, will say that He speaks in vivid dreams to them, while I doubt that the average American church-goer could say that. Generally, the Africans seem to be more visual and expressive than some other cultures. In tragedies, they do not grieve quietly. Most often there is loud and completely unrestrained wailing. After knowing this about our African friends in Beijing and from stories told from our pastor here who used to live in Malawi, Africa, and then seeing this elderly Thai lady, it made me wonder about my own American cultural requirement to try to maintain composure when tragedies happen. When I hear others tell people to, “Be strong” after, say, their spouse dies, I don’t understand what that means. Does it mean to “be strong” in the Lord and lean on Him, or does it mean to subdue our real emotions and try to keep on going in our daily lives? Maybe a mixture of both. Hebrew culture in the Bible is not lacking in expressions of deep emotions, both high and low, inside the temple and outside the temple. On a few occasions, from outside our little Beijing apartment window, we’ve heard deep wailing cries from some mysterious man in another apartment. Even though Chinese people seem to be on the opposite end of the spectrum from the Africans in terms of expressing deep emotions publicly, there are exceptions, as with any group of people.
Our last day of service was spent repairing a temporary schoolhouse in a very predominantly Muslim district. Directly across the street from our worksite stood a mosque complete with a minaret, and all around the neighborhood atop telephone and light poles were megaphones bellowing out static-y incantations of prayers at certain periods throughout the day. I painted shutters inside the schoolhouse with the other women while Frank lay concrete flooring outside for a playground area with the men. Our ‘China team’ was all there along with several community volunteers and some teachers from the school. After we broke for lunch, Bo asked me if I would be willing to talk with some of the volunteers there about the Good News while he translated. I was hesitant at first, not at all because I wasn’t interested, but only out of my own ‘fear of man’. I knew, though, that it was a challenge that I needed to arise to, I just had to let the Spirit speak through me with His words, not my own. I returned to the room that I had been painting before lunchtime where I had been chit-chatting with three teachers who were re-organizing their filing cabinets and trying to repair water-damaged class pictures (pointing out to me which students were sadly not going to be returning). As we were standing around preparing to get back to work, I just started asking them a few questions – where do they think the beauty of such a paradise comes from?, what do they believe happened to their young students who had their lives taken away? This obviously opened up the conversation to more serious talk, and two of the teachers were keenly listening. I very basically but thoroughly tried to explain to them who Jesus was (not knowing their background at all – whether they practiced Islam or Buddhism or what) and why Jesus came. I asked them if they were willing to allow this Jesus to completely rule their life, and all of them instantly nodded their heads. To my North American mindset, I was a little surprised in some ways. I doubted, “How could someone just give their life to God in fifteen minutes after hearing some girl they don’t even know talk about it?”, “Are they serious about such a commitment, or are they just trying to appease me?” I am not completely to the point where I understand all of the theological points to all of my related questions, nor am I sure if we humans are even supposed to. But I do trust that God is in control of their souls above all.
Right after that, one of the teachers grabbed me by the arm and took me over to her motor-scooter (as my dad calls them), asking me to go for a ride. I hopped on. We winded up and around hills, passing eagles and monkeys along the way. We arrived at a little hut community and parked at one of them. I hopped off and followed her down to where her four-month-old baby boy was hanging from an all-cloth Thai-style baby holder (for lack of a better description). Her sister-in-law and niece, who live with the teacher and her husband, were watching the baby for her. They asked me if I wanted some oranges and then pointed to an orange tree and a ladder in the backyard. They laughed the whole time I struggled to keep my balance while tugging them loose from their branches. The teacher took me on a tour all over their home, pointing out the line of mud all around the walls where the water had risen so high. It was at least up to my chest. The bottom floor was bare; everything had washed away. They didn’t even have kitchenware to cook. She took me upstairs to their bedroom and showed me wedding pictures and baby pictures. From the looks of her at special events and upon seeing other veiled women in their family, it seems that she was Muslim. I wondered what her husband was going to think, how she was going to tell him… Earlier in the day I had complimented her on her hot pink pants. Little did I know that in Thai culture people are willing to just give it to you on the spot. Most all of her clothes were washed away, too, but did that stop her from giving me those pants AND a tropical wrap skirt? I couldn’t refuse them; that would be rude. Every time I wear them, I think of that sweet lady and pray that she will continue to seek the one true Lord.
Update: The team returned to the school the next week. After telling Jim that this teacher had no clothes and with some leftover clothes donations from the American pilot and his wife, Jim went back to give this lady the rest of them. When Jim opened the van door, the first thing the teacher saw in there was a baby stroller. She giddily said (in Thai), “Is this for me?” No, it actually wasn’t bought with her in mind, but for one of the sea gypsy villagers whose baby boy had a severe case of cerebral palsy and had to be carried in his mother’s arms everywhere. But Jim certainly could get another one. The teacher apparently was far more thrilled about the baby stroller than her new clothes.
On our way out of the country on our long layover in the Bangkok airport, Frank and I passed by a large group of Chinese people. About 60+ in all, the men were all wearing Muslim head coverings and the women were all veiled. Of course, I couldn’t help but stop and ask which part of China they were from. I asked in Mandarin if they were from the Uygur people-group in Xinjiang (the Western Territory of China on the border of Kazakhstan & Turkistan) because a lot of the people in that region are more Middle Eastern looking than typical Chinese, and most practice Islam, at least culturally (no pork, veils, etc.). They replied, “No”, but pointed to a smaller group of people who were. They were all making their once-in-a-lifetime hajj to mecca. The group of four from Xinjiang had apparently been in that same spot for 50 days. Two older couples – very old, hard to tell, but could be pushing 90. After having their passport and all other pertinent travel documents stolen in some travel agency scam, they were stuck in the airport without anyone being able to understand their little-known mountain language – until, that is, this fellow Muslim group passed them by in the airport and one of the men in the group was somewhat familiar with their language. Frank and I passed by while the large group was waiting to board their flight to The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Many of the people in the large group were giving the Xinjiang couples food and money. But they needed even more money to buy a flight to get back home. Frank and I knelt down by them, tried naively to talk to them in Mandarin, but again, it seemed that a warm smile and a touch to the hand, particularly to one of the ladies, did more good than a thousand words in a mutually understandable language --- maybe just to know that someone cared, or maybe she was just ready to get home to people and places she knew, or maybe she was downtrodden after spending their life savings on a trip to mecca and couldn’t even attend after all the work. She began to cry, and then hung her head and covered up her face with her veiny, wrinkly, yellow, and dirty hands. We asked if it would be okay if we prayed over them. The other group knew we were Christians, and a few of them overlooking the scene seemed to dissent, but most just watched with curiosity. Then Frank and I decided that we could try to help them out instead of doing the usual airport layover routine of eating fast food, people watching, and browsing gift/book stores. We thought we’d just go around to various conspicuous airport-goers and explain in the world’s common language, English, the plight of these four people and point them in the direction of where to give money to them, if they were interested. This sort of task doesn’t require a lot of guts for me. I have bagged many years of experience going door-to-door selling everything from Girl Scout cookies to gift wrapping for high school band fundraisers, but for ol’ Franko, this could have been a first at going up to complete strangers and asking for money. We talked to a middle-aged French couple, a young Russian athlete (who let us go through the whole schpeel, to only at the end say, “Huh?”), and a Brit. Then we came to an African-American who works in the Bush Administration and had been on several trips to Iraq with then Sec’y of State, Colin Powell. Very stand-offish at first, he gradually warmed up to us. His disbelief about the number of days that they’d been sitting in the airport triggered us to seek a higher authority in the form of airport security. He convinced us that that’s where one is likely to make something happen instead of through random passers-by. When we returned to the group, a Thai-Chinese airport worker was ushering the group along, collecting tickets. Frank and I, along with members of the larger group, helped explain to him (since he spoke Mandarin) the other group’s situation. He seemed very competent and willing to get the ball rolling. By that time, it was time for us to board, too. We said good-bye to the elderly couples and
Thursday, February 03, 2005
I don't know what happened to all the intellectuals during the Cultural Revolution, but the taxi drivers in Beijing appear, to this reporter at least, to have taken over the intelligentsia. The Poli Sci department at Beijing University may disagree with that, but these icons of public opinion are one of my favorite things about living here. These rustic and charmingly simple 40-somethings (I guess that's about the average age, though some are deceptively older or younger) have an opinion on 'everything under heaven' (as it translates in Chinese) and want to talk about it with whomever is riding with them, especially if you choose to sit shotgun. It's a Beijing custom, unlike in America (though I've taken few cabs in my motherland) to sit up front if you're riding alone. To sit in the back means that you're either not in the mood for conversation or that you've got some business to take care of while going from A to B (more and more, people are choosing the latter, as I've observed that most Beijingers spend a greater part of their day on their cell phones). Now, A to B may only be 3 kilometers apart (yes, Frank and I have had to convert to the international standard) but with Beijing's unnerving traffic jams, you may have a sit-still-waiting time of 30-45 minutes, easily. That means that there's a lot of time to pass if you're like me and forget to bring a good book/CD player/Chinese study cards. I try to remember to bring something productive to do if I have to go somewhere, but oftentimes I just plain ol' enjoy shooting the bull (as it translates into Chinese, and in English as well, strangely) with my driver for that day, especially when he's friendly. I've not heard it said, but I bet that those-in-the-know would agree that if you could convince taxi drivers of something, basically you've got the whole city (or country - depending on your intended parameters) sold, too. They are China's biggest propagandists. They drive around this metropolis 18 hours a day, listening to Communist Talk Radio, of all things. <Who got them on to this?> If a cabbie has his (mainly 'his', though more and more, there are some 'hers' seen in the driver's side) radio on, you can bet which station he's tuned in to. But fear not, they have a mind of their own, too. They are well-informed of the canned answer (which are the same invariably from driver to driver), but their real opinions vary as much as the number of cab drivers in the city. Almost without exception, this is how it goes once we've flagged down a cab:
Cabbie: Where to?
Me: "X" place
Cabbie: Oh, your Chinese is so good. (Don't fall for this being a true statement - they say this to every foreigner who can say a word of Chinese) Which country are you from?
Me: Take a guess.
Cabbie: mmmm... (if I'm wearing my "Russian" hat, as I call it - it's furry and brown) Russia?
Me: No way. Guess again.
Cabbie: I don't know. I give up.
Me: Ok, I'll give you a hint. We're the greatest country in the world.
Cabbie: You don't look Chinese.
Me: I know. I'm from Xinjiang (a territory in west China whose inhbitants are more Turkish-looking).
Cabbie: Really?
Me: No. I'm Just kidding. I'm an American.
Cabbie: Ah, America. Good. Do you like it here?
Me: Yes.
Cabbie: How long have you been in China?
Me: Almost two years altogether.
Cabbie: Wow. How'd you learn Chinese so quickly?
Me: I studied in America.
Cabbie: So what do you do here in Beijing - study or work?
Me: I'm a private English teacher.
[*Note: If Frank is in the car, though, the conversation deviates from mine at this point:
Cabbie: So what do you do here in Beijing?
Frank: I'm a cab driver, too.
Cabbie: (reaction differs from driver to driver) one could be - NO, YOU'RE NOT! That's impossible! - or another common one - Hahahahahaha......... No, you're not.]
Cabbie: Ooh, that's good. How much do you make an hour?
Me: It's not my American custom to tell others things like that. (I hate telling people our price per hour when it's the amount that they make in weeks)
The conversation is not as predictable from here on. Usually 'the Iraq war' topic comes up, but it's not a guarantee, though if the ride is long enough, your chances are greater. Sometimes they want to show off (in a self-deprecating kind of way) the little English they have learned. The Aussies (there are enough of them there) must have gotten fed up with the cabbies' terrible English (or, more likely, their own inability to learn Chinese), so their government recently supplied the city's drivers with English language kits, in hopes that other Beijing 2008 Olympic-watchers won't get as frustrated as they have. Pulling out one of these kits one day, a cab driver showed me what he's been studying lately:
Driver: Where can I take you?
Passenger #1: To the Great Wall Hotel, please.
Driver: Where would you like to go?
Passenger #2: To the airport, please.
Passenger #3: Can you take me to a department store, please?
Driver: Yes, certainly. or simply, OK!
It's hilarious to hear this actually come out of their mouths, if you can imagine.
On selection -- There are three and only three flavors to choose from. The most expensive kind come in at 2.00 RMB per kilometer, but one is unlikely to find one of these high-class types anywhere other than at the grandest hotels of Beijing. 1.20 and 1.60 (RMB/km) are what we usually see scooting around. There's a minimum charge of 10 RMB for the first 3 kilometers, and the rate per kilometer raises once you've gone further than 15 kilometers. It took Frank and me, I'm ashamed to say, a long time to figure the majority of this out. After getting dooped one time by a "black cab" (an illegal, unregistered one without a meter), we started watching the meters like hawks. It's harder than it seems (of course it is, if Frank still doesn't quite get all of it)because there are about 3-4 meters within the main meter all calculating at once, depending on the cab company (or so we think).
The smaller cabs (1.20 RMB/km) are all the same make and model and color -- every one of them is a red, rinky-dink Chinese-made car. The 1.60 RMB/km are a bit more upscale (meaning: they have A/C and more room) and are French-made (go figure) and red. Inside, the driver usually has a bar encasing him (I don't know why - Beijing is one of the safest cities in the world). In the center console, you can bet there's a banged-up, clear plastic thermos filled with green tea leaves and hot water that looks quite putrid. Serving as either decoration or an insulator for the tea thermos, there's a (dirty) colorful knitted handle-type thing that their wife/daughter/mother has made for them. The smell inside the cab can often be worse than the air outside. I think that all the 1.20s should be sent back on factory recall because the exhaust pipe was installed on the inside. I don't bother putting the seat belt on anymore, unless I really want a great big dirty stripe diagonally across my torso. On the occasion that I see my driver pull his across his chest (but, of course, never actually fasten it) when he thinks he's passing a policeman, I try to as well (my late grandfather would love this about these guys). I am sure that I am the first person to give it a try it since the crash test dummy.
All taxis display a large drivers registration card and photo on the passenger's dashboard. Most of the time, the dude in the picture doesn't even come close to what you see when you peek your head over to the left and look through the bars. They must use their best 10th-grade school photo or something.
A great thing about China is that there is no tipping or sales tax. Yes, I understand the capitalist concept of tipping and taxes, but in many ways, it is nice to pay exactly the price that's on the bill. Sometimes though, I wish there was a way to reward good service here. Beijing cab drivers struggle to make ends meet. They work long hours and have little money left over after paying their monopoly bosses. They are required to pay about a set amount each month to the bossman, regardless of whether it's been a good or bad month for them. On top of that, they have to pay for gas, car maintenance, any traffic violation fines, and income tax, which leaves little that's leftover to feed Little Wang and the wife. If any of them ever got to hear about the organization of labor unions and their subsequent strikes in The States, Beijing would be crippled immediately. At least half, if not more, of the cars on the road are red cabs. I'd imagine that that concept wouldn't fare too well over here because the labor supply seems endless. Due to a limited number of posts, the cab drivers wouldn't let out a peep of dissatisfaction for fear of being easily and promptly replaced from a waiting list of countryside workers just dying to get to work in the big city.
I don't know if this is true or not, but purportedly, there are 40-60 deaths per day in this city due to car accidents. The death toll and death rate per 10,000 automobiles in China is eight times more than that in America with almost 80% being caused by improper driving. This rate is expected to only worsen by 10% every year, too. Punishment is too lenient, so the cabbies say, to deter bad drivers and coerce them to drive more carefully. I agree with the cabbies – they are the only good drivers on the road. From what I see, there are two reasons for all this road chaos: (1) there are too many cars on the road with a sticker/sign on the back of their car that reads “New Driver” (in Chinese, of course - it's the law for your first year of driving). And, (2) as the timeless joke goes, “Why couldn’t Helen Keller drive?” --- “...because she was a woman”. As bad as this joke is, most of the bad drivers here are women. <No one get offended, please.>
Thursday, December 16, 2004
More Funny Sign Translations
- Protect CircumStance Begin with Me (in a park, asking people not to litter)
- Free Servict. Politely to each other. Pay attention to treasure. Boware of Sun's dazzling. (at the top of Beijing's TV tower - posted on the telescope to look out over the city)
- Slip Carefully (in a store while workers were mopping)
- Pregnant Woman over 70 and disabled people lounge (in a railway station)
- Civilized Behavior of Tourists is another Bright Scenery (posted along a mountain climbing path)
- No Louding
- No Moving In (as you come in to a shopping mall)
- Sorry, Businessing now (hanging outside of a closed door to an office)
- Tour the Hur tell: Consume the Nur tell: (I have no idea what this means)
- Dangerous Goo: Keep clear (as seen on a railroad cart passing by)
- The Auspicious Hole (on a sign describing to tourists about a cave)
- Genitl Emen ----> (pointing to where men should go to the washroom)
- Offer the seats to the Old, Weak, Sick, Cripple, and Gravid (in a hotel lobby)
- The Shepherd's Purse reveals the winter bamboo shoots (describing a picture on a menu)
- Be Sterilised (on a sign near in a restaurant suggesting that the customers wash their hands before eating)
- When old man's child go up hand ladder temporary need the family to accompany (better translation from the Chinese: We ask that family members who are accompanying elderly persons and children please assist them when climbing the stairs.)
- Women's Civilised Demonstrate Post (I don't really get what they were saying, either)
- Danger! Jumping into the Tunnel is Forbidden
- Civilized Traffic Starts at Home
- Don't Drive Tiredly (posted on the major highways around Beijing)
- Flashing Street <-------
- To Consult to a Telephone, To Throw to a Telephone (outside a telephone booth, giving phone numbers for different operators and phone companies)
- X Rat check (on a marquee at the airport security terminal)
- Waiting Will Be Prosecuted (outside at the airport arrival /pick-up zone)
Thursday, November 11, 2004
More hair than usual has been falling out of my head lately, so I made a trip down to the local Chinese Traditional Medicine Dispensary last week to see what the doctor's orders/recommendations were. Walking in the front door (actually thick plastic strips hanging from the top to "keep in heat") reminded me of about the same aroma as a veterinarian's office in the States. I came armed with a Chinese-English dictionary in case I heard terms like "anemia" or "zinc/iron deficiency", which I had heard before in America. Little good it did in Chinese medicine, but somehow we communicated back and forth about my options. The doctor brought out several boxes - each boxset full of herbs and liquids. All these boxes were supposed to last only four days - one cough syrup-sized bottle taken four times a day, too. I thought that before I bought and consumed mindlessly, I atleast needed to write down all the important ingredients off the box and come back and Google them all. So I found myself today on the internet looking for a Chinese-English medical dictionary online. I found one, boy, did I find one. Here is one exerpt from the aforementioned site:
All Chinese characters used at this site are displayed in GIF image format thus obviating the need for a text-support system. This also serves to deter the 'cut-and-paste' plagiarism rampant in this decadent age. And I can't help but post what is now my and Frank's favorite quote found in China so far. Here it goes:
This site is crafted with altruistic intent and serosanguineous sacrifices. Any act of plagiarism, irrespective of nature and extent, is counter-revolutionary and tantamount to bed-wetting.
Saturday, October 09, 2004
As Frank and I are the former owners of EIGHT bikes (that’s the latest count) [*UPDATE as of January 11, 2005 - we're at 11 now, apparently stolen by workers wanting to return to their hometowns for Chinese New Year and haven't been paid by their bosses as they were promised*] which were stolen here in Beijing despite being locked (two even with an American Kryptonite lock), I have decided to tackle the oh-so-important-in-China subject tonight of bicycles.
As you may have heard, bicycles are the pre-eminent means of transportation in China. If the car is king in America, the bicycle is freely-elected president in China. Almost every major city devotes much of its city streets to bicycle lanes, one on each side of the street. Even though car sales in China are enough to make the VPs at Ford and GM grin from ear-to-ear at the sight of every quarterly report, bicycles have ruled the road since Liberation in China and they are certainly not about to give up without a fight. Lest we not forget, one of Deng Xiaoping's campaign promises when he rose to power in the late 1970s was "a Flying Pigeon in every household." (what is a Flying Pigeon?, you ask – keep reading). He must’ve kept his word on that promise because standing at any crossroads in Beijing during the morning or afternoon rush-hour, one will find an impressive flow of bicycles, in all weather conditions, anytime of the year. Beijingers think nothing of riding for an hour and a half to work each day and back. The squeaky two-wheelers can be seen moving in inexorable streams along city streets and country backroads. Last I could tell, China had 500 million bicycles by 1987 – one bicycle for every two people of its population (yes, that is a lot, even for a 17-year-old statistic). Some people have called China "The Bicycle Kingdom of the World". If that’s true, Beijing must be the capital of the Bicycle Kingdom, with its number of bicycles that must be counted by the millions.
KINDS OF BICYCLES/A LITTLE HISTORY
For many decades, particularly in the Cultural Revolution, bikes in China were all black or dark blue (no one could be fancier than anyone else) and were all the classic, steel-framed kind – non-suspension, single-geared, heavy, and lasting forever. This bicycle style is, hands down, the best kind in the world, according to Brandi and Frank (but whaddatheyknow?), and we will be sad to return home without one of these in tow. Though shiny mountain bikes are steadily gaining popularity, these old-style bikes still dominate the roads, its drivers (many of whom are older comrades) having little regard for the rules of the road. Most cyclists on this kind of bike cruise through town with a kind of age-old haplessness, for they are the generation that brought the bicycle into real power in China. At the forefront of this whole bicycle phenomenon in the PRC is 1) the Fei Ge (Flying Pigeon brand) and 2) Yong Jiu (Shanghai Forever brand). The Flying Pigeons were originally hatched at the Tianjin Bicycle Company, a former Japanese-artillery factory from the ‘30’s, but after the Communists came to power in 1949, The Great Helmsman, Mao Zedong, sent his heir to the factory to declare that it should be the first bicycle manufacturer in New China. The name Fei Ge (literally 'flying dove') was originally chosen as an expression for peace amidst the raging war in Korea. However, the Chinese word gezi can be translated as either dove or pigeon. For some inexplicable reason the latter was used. Why this scruffy, vermin-with-wings was chosen to represent the nation's most prominent bicycle trademark may forever remain a mystery (much like we wonder about how the t-shirt translations we see around town came about). Lore has it that ‘pigeon’ was selected because it is regarded as a working-class fowl. Now, a half century later, there are around 200 different Fei Ge models, ranging from ladies' 'princess' bikes to men's 'king' mountain bikes.
Other than your classic-style roadster, there are all kinds of models/brands on the road offering the citizens of this quasi-capitalist/not-really-communist country different colors, styles, sizes, and speeds.
There’s the electric power-assist bicycle, mostly ridden by older women who don’t want to pedal. These cool cats easily blow by me in traffic.
Then there’s the utility bike. The role of these utility bikes really cannot be overstated. Cargo transport is their main function. They are probably used as much as any of the other main modes of transport in China (air, auto, rail), but more for within-the-city deliveries. And they are everywhere in the city. These bikes are like humongous tricycles with a carrier rack on the back. It is unbelievable what these skinny-legged cyclist-men carry behind them, some I’d imagine with a 400 lb. load, stacked as high as the tall overpass bridges they go under. I’ve seen ‘em stop before a bridge to re-tie their load. It’s a masterpiece how they perfectly fit and tie up each thing on there. It wobbles a whole lot, but not once have I ever seen a cyclist spill out his goods onto the street.
RULES OF THE ROAD (only kind of)
No one uses helmets, no one wears lycra, and no one uses the nifty little pedal straps. What they do do is ride one-handed with a parasol in the other hand (on sunny days). On rainy days, out they come with their all-in-one raincapes, and the city streets resemble a throng of two-wheeled monks - all cowled in blue, red, or yellow plastic against the elements. Nothing stops them.
Another thing I have frequently witnessed is the "critical mass" events of Beijing cyclists. This occurs when a growing number of cyclists accumulate at one edge of the intersection, and then, when they have built up enough mass, move through the intersection (of course, regardless of the traffic light's status) as other traffic yielded.
BIKE REPAIRS
No appointment needed (or possible). Bike repair stations are on every corner and in between each corner. If you need to air up your front tire, just stop where you are. Look around you and you’ll see at least three choices of stations to decide from. More later on our favorite Beijinger, Chang Wen Sheng, who happens to be our bicycle repairman.
OTHER FUNCTIONS : Selling things and offering services
Nowadays, peddlers with musical instruments are rapidly decreasing. For the ones that are left - these guys are like a one-man band, cruising around town demonstrating the high-quality of their instruments to prospective customers. Much of this decrease in instrument peddlers has been due to the listing of the cobra on China’s endangered species list, whose skin is used on the covers of such instruments of which you’ve probably never seen the likes of before.
The knife/scissor sharpeners still blow their bugles, and roving barbers (2 yuan per trim – $.20) still strike an instrument that looks like a tuning fork for those needing a quick trim, but still, there are fewer and fewer of these mobile salesmen each passing year as China modernizes. People still shout, or offer their ware for sale. By their cries, you know exactly what they are selling, be it ice-cream, syrup-coated hawthorns, persimmons, wonton soup, or baked sweet potatoes. Some sell goldfish, guppies, frogs, and turtles from the ten-gallon tank strapped on the back of the bike, and some (these guys are my personal favorite because of their bizarre yells/yodels) allow you to trade in yesterday’s beer bottles for newly-filled ones (for 1.2 yuan per liter – or about $.20, much cheaper than the water here). Two old men come by our place 2-3 times a day, and we can hear him from the seventh floor with music/TV on and are able to distinguish between the two beer companies by their cries. I only wish I could attach a sound clip of these guys.
STORAGE/PARKING
Bike storage is heroically addressed throughout China with two types of parking: 1) self-serve, and 2) attended bike parking stations. On self-serve: to lock your bike, most people secure it with simple wheel locks wherever they want to park it. I suppose they think their bike is heavy enough that nobody is just pick one up and carry it off (haha). Then, some places have a pay lot where an attendant stays onsite, and people deposit their coins into a box on a chair. Sections of sidewalks are dedicated to this kind of mass bike parking. Yes, as opposed to most places in the world, Beijing people actually have to pay to park their bike.
THEFT
Even though Beijing has been ranked as the #1 safest travel city in the world (two times, too), bike theft has become a serious problem here in Beijing. Beijingers have the "you-could-call-it-wise" idea that if they own a really old, terrible looking, beaten-up bike, it is less likely to be stolen. We have de-bunked that theory time and again. It does make you wonder, though, why smart-looking bikes are rarely sighted in Beijing. We do, however, see some deterring-looking locks and security devices, even on the worst looking bicycles. We’ve heard of one girl here that was determined not to get another bike stolen, so she bought six locks and strapped them all on at once. When she came out of the market, she found all six locks in the front basket of her bike. Props to that lock-picker – that is funny. Even though buying a beat-up bike is recommended, it is actually not that easy to buy a used bike legally. New bike stores are everywhere, but I rarely see new-looking ones on the road. There is a huge black market around town for stolen bikes. Unknowingly (sort of), a couple of times, we have bought from this band of thieves. It was shady. No names, no numbers, just a place and a time to meet with the cash to trade off the goods. After we handed over the bills, the boys took off running in different directions. We don’t do that anymore. I think the stolen bikes are somehow labeled, and they just steal them all over again. More likely, I think that they’ve tagged the laowai’s (foreigners’) bicycles in the neighborhood and nab us the first chance they get. Last week Frank had two stolen within an hour of when he parked them. They’re on the lookout for us, we’re convinced. We are definitely part of the supply chain for the aforementioned black market. I wouldn’t doubt it if we’ve re-bought one of our old bikes. Frank and I have what we call “bike envy”. To you Americanos, I liken it to a turn of the head when a new red corvette passes by (? - or whatever tickles your fancy). This happens when Frank and I catch a glimpse of a shiny new YongJiu. Our most recent method is finding a busy intersection, getting the cash ready in hand, waiting for that perfect bike to come along, walking up to the owner/running along side the owner, and offering them an on-the-spot sale. Two times out of four, it has worked (for me, at least). The price must be (too) right. Oh, well, we’re desperate.
ADVENTURES ON BIKE
In order to survive riding a bicycle in China's bustling, crowded capital, it seems necessary to be either brave, stupid or Chinese. I will never be the latter, and have yet to decide which of the first two is the most applicable. I do know that owning and riding one seems to be a key factor in feeling a sense of belonging here, rather than forever staying a an outsider. On two wheels, everyone is equal.
Except of course that they aren't. All but born in the saddle, China's cycling population has a distinct advantage over me, and this is only too painfully evident as I wobble along the street, desperately trying to avoid the other bikes coming at me from all directions (especially when I travel on the wrong side of the road). For those bike-drivers out there in Beijing that show superior skill in avoiding me, thank you for only giving me a surprised intake of breath (probably about two things: one, that it’s a foreign girl on a Chinese brand bike, and two, that he almost got knocked hard on the pavement), and not the customary muttered curse in Chinese hardly under the breath.
Other than going from point A to point B on bike, I think that the bicycle provides the best vantagepoint to really explore all the little crevices of Beijing. The taxis and the buses pass by too quickly to capture the details and get a true feel for what this rapidly changing city is like, where the affluent new seamlessly blends with the impoverished old. Either that, or I’m stuck in traffic on a bus, sitting in one place for several minutes and my interest in these little niches of Beijing is lost. The new (a lot of them empty) office buildings tower over these narrow alleyway houses that haven’t changed in centuries, and they can easily be missed in the shuffle. On two wheels, I can explore in between these juxtaposed places and see the hutong (old traditional alleyway) streets where old neighbor ladies sit on their overturned boxes, sipping hot tea and playing mah jhong. I can see women hanging their oversized underwear (which are unisex) out on the line. I can smell the boiling of noodles and the steaming of jiaozi (dumplings) at lunchtime. I can see an elderly gentleman, still wearing his faded blue Mao suit and Revolution-era cap, shuffling along in black cloth slippers as he takes his caged songbird out for their daily walk. I can watch as that same elderly gentleman passes scores of businessmen clad in western designer labels, sporting the latest mobile phones in hand.
WHAT’S IN THAT FRONT BASKET?
Any early morning outside of our apartment at the vegetable market you’re bound to see an old man (or two or fifty) taking his fresh-from-the-countryside-farm produce home in a towering basket of cabbages and live chickens that is almost twice his own size and allows him to barely see the road ahead. As he rounds the corner, he may wave to a lao taitai (old lady) friend that is heading to the market, dog in basket, with its ears perked up and paws hanging over the front, joyriding in the morning breeze/pollution. The old man may soon pass a courting couple as the young man pedals for two and she sits demurely side-saddle on the rear pannier. At the traffic light the old man steps his foot on the pavement for balance and spots a young mother to his right, her infant wrapped up and safely balanced in her front basket. Neither the elderly man or young mother pay any attention to the fearsome flag lady who blows her whistle furiously and raises a white-gloved hand in an attempt to restore order to the cycling horde, but her shouts go unheeded as the lights change. With a clatter of spokes and a ring of bells, both are lost in the surging tide of bikes. Left in the dust, the flag lady stands undaunted. She straightens the peak of her cap and unfurls her flags in readiness for the next flock of Flying Pigeons to fly through.
Monday, September 27, 2004
We recently joined a gym. We'd been wanting to for quite some time, but just now scrounged up enough money to get a membership. It's just a short bike ride away from our flat. It's no Downtown Gym, but it's not too bad. So I was in there two days ago (this day by myself - usually Frank and I go together), and I had just gotten on the elliptical machine (which faces the window, and all the other stuff is behind me), when I heard some yelling, even through the loud music on my headphones. I turned around for a few seconds and saw nothing that was obviously going on. So I continue working out, and about 3-4 minutes later, I hear the ruckus again. I turn around again and see a large man (large even for Western standards) staring me down from about 30-40 feet away on his treadmill. At first, I wasn't sure if he was actually looking at me. This was all going through my head very quickly - "Why would he be looking at me? No, surely he's not looking at me. Well, who else is he looking at? Wait, I think he is looking at me!" All the while, I am still looking at him, trying to figure all this out. He says, "Ni kan shenme?" ("What are you looking at?") about four or five times, and I'm still not wholly convinced he's after me. Then I see him start making fists at me. And then he starts punching them in the air. I can even see, from where I am, his lower teeth jutting outward in his anger. Now I'm sure. By this time he'd straddled the treadmill while the thing was still going. At this point, I don't know what to do. I think to myself, "If I turn back around to face the window, I can't see what's going on behind me, and with all this happening, I think I need to be aware of what's happening behind me. But maybe the wise thing to do would be to just mind my own business...." Right as I decided to do the prudent thing - face the window - I see the man stepping off the treadmill suddenly and start coming towards me! Then from the side, the head trainer steps up and grabs the man's arm and tells him (from what little I can hear), "She's a foreigner. What are you doing?....." I whipped my head around, put my headphones back in my ears, faced straight ahead and was determined to continue my workout for the remaining 20 minutes on the machine. Just as I thought things had settled down, I hear him AGAIN. Boy, my curiosity was getting the best of me. I really wanted to know what he was up to now. I justified my turning around AGAIN by saying that it could possibly involve me. Turns out that he had found another girl to attack, but she was Chinese and she was fighting back. All I saw when I slyly turned around was his grabbing the TV remote control out of her hand in a rage.
I didn't know what I was going to do when I got off. I wasn’t going to leave, but I did almost call Frank in the middle of his class. So I just did what I normally do (normally, meaning for the past two weeks) – head over to do sit-ups. To get there from the elliptical machine couldn’t be further. I knew I’d probably have to pass him. But I kept my eye on my target and didn’t look left or right on the way there. On about sit-up no. 13, as I’m pulling up I see him standing there, just glaring me down with stern eyes. Until about sit-up no. 27, every time I came up, he was there to meet my eyes. Finally he walked away. I thought I was rid of him until we had another run in on the leg press, but it was mild in comparison.
I still have no idea what this guy’s problem was. I can’t wait to talk to the head trainer and ask him.
Tuesday, September 21, 2004
Si Jing, our little pianist
A few entries back, I mentioned that Frank has a student that lives upstairs from us in our apartment building. Her name is Ye Si Jing (we've named her Suzie, but she never uses this name--her nickname, and what she is often called, is "Beibei", pronounced "Bay-bay"). She's 13 years old, and she's from the southern part of China, near Hong Kong. She hasn't actually been playing the piano that long, comparatively. Here in China, as in most single-party political systems or dictatorships, the country's athletes and musicians (to name a couple) are primed from birth. There is no life outside of your sport or instrument or whatever it may be. It's all or nothing. Like, for example, if we had a little girl here and wanted to enroll her in ballet lessons, it would be nearly impossible to find a teacher that would accept her if they knew that she were only in it for recreational purposes. The other expatriate families that we've talked to have to deal with this quite often -- from violin lessons to soccer teams, getting their child enrolled in extra-curricular activities without agreeing to take their child permanently out of school or signing a contract releasing their child to the constant supervision of the state/teacher is, needless to say, a hassle. For Chinese people, though, the parents seem to be ready and willing to do such. There are currently 38 million children studying piano in China (mind you, there are 307 million children in China altogether). That's about 12-13 percent of China's child population studying piano on a very serious level.
Of this 12.4% of China's child population, Si Jing is one of the top three child pianists in the country and is quickly heading to the number one spot. We actually met Si Jing's mother first on the elevator. She was kind of in a panic at the moment because she had just received Si Jing's acceptance letter to a prestigious international piano competition in America two weeks late (lost in the mail) and had missed the deadline to pay the registration fee. I mentioned her in an earlier post because she was the lady that was fascinated by the use of credit cards. Frank basically told her that he would email the organizers about the mishap and pay for the registration fee on his credit card instantly. It was if she almost didn't trust us that it could be that easy. Things all worked out in the end, though. After our first encounter with the mother, we had to keep in touch with her because a lot of the communication from the organizers in the States passed through us. She soon found out that we were English teachers, and she thought Si Jing could use some lessons. Frank had some time in his schedule for her, plus his price was cheaper than mine per hour, so Si Jing and Frank started lessons. Since then, it's been on and off because she's away giving concerts and at competitions very often. For the first lesson, after Frank taught for two hours in their home, the mother didn't pay him the right amount - she had misunderstood the price - she though it was per lesson and not per hour. So that's when she told Frank the low-down on their situation...
There's a famous, very-recognizable (in this country, at least), older-lady pianist from China that plays for all foreign dignitaries on their visits. This lady was in Si Jing's hometown one day and somehow discovered Si Jing's talent. The lady iterated to Si Jing's mom that she had to move to Beijing to let her study with her at a real music school. China's laws are pretty strict about who can move where within the country, so only Si Jing and her mother were permitted to leave and move to Beijing. Her father had to stay behind with his job there. The only stipulation was/is that Si Jing's mother is not allowed to hold a job while in Beijing. Two problems with that: (1) it obviously breaks the family apart to where they only get to see each other about two to three times a year at best, and (2) it stretches the family financially. Usually in China both the parents work, so shifting down to one income while at the same time increasing expenses (music school tuition, living in a higher-cost-of-living city) was a big leap, to say the least. For the first several months of their time in Beijing, the two were "living", (more like existing) on the outskirts of the city (and this city is unimaginably big, both geographically and population-wise), sleeping on the bare earth or some cardboard that they had foraged for, and traveling a very long time to get to the center of the city for her lessons. The piano teacher, when she became aware of the family's sacrificial move, without hesitation cut her usual fee-per-hour-of-study in half (from 500 RMB per hour --about $60USD-- to 250 RMB). We live next door to China's National Music Conservatory (for young students), but even having this renowned teacher teach at this school was an honor. After a while, though, Si Jing's family could no longer afford to keep up studying with the teacher. Turned out to be no matter to the teacher - she said she would keep her on for free, if that meant her continuing her piano study. So it was and has been that way for a while now.
Si Jing recently came back from the year's biggest international competition held in the U.S. for child pianists with the #2 prize. Why didn't she win first prize, you ask? Her mother informs us that she was the second one to play, and her piano was a bit out of tune (go figure) at the premier competition, but because she is so used to playing on out-of-tune pianos in her own home, she continued without it hindering her much. The girl that played after Si Jing complained as soon as she started playing (she practices on perfectly-tuned pianos), and they switched the grand pianos. That girl won the big money prize. But Si Jing came away with enough money to let her family live a little more comfortably for a while. Those U.S. bills will be stretched pretty far by them.
The thing about Si Jing is that she came out of nowhere. Not a single person in her whole family is musically inclined. The story goes that she was like the other child musicians of long ago--the kind where when they hear their instrument played for the first time, they go into a trance-like state. So it was with Si Jing. The other Chinese child piano prodigies have been in circle of winners for years. You can pretty much bet on the top winners at each music festival. These other competitors have been practicing for this specific competition since last year's was over. They also don't attend regular school. They just practice all day long. Si Jing is enrolled in school. And Chinese schooling is, if you havent' heard, a lot more rigorous than Oak Grove (that's my alma mater in Hattiesburg, Mississippi). Furthermore, she started practicing, I believe her mother said, three or four months beforehand. Not only that, but she is relatively new to the piano in general. These other kids have been playing since they were just out of diapers. Si Jing is 13 and started playing about 4-5 years ago. That's progress. I took piano lessons for that long, and I could barely get the right hand down for Fur Elise at the so-called height of my piano career.
Update: Si Jing won first prize at an international competition in Romania. Though not the big-dog event like the American one, it's a decent one to add to her collection of ribbons and trophies and bank account.
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